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- Simply measure equal parts by volume of part A (white putty) and part B (blue putty) into two separate equal sized balls.
- Knead part A and part B together with your hands until uniform in color (light blue). The heat from your hands will help activate the product. Once the color is uniform, you are ready to begin your mold.
- Press the kneaded mixture onto the surface of the object you wish to replicate. Press firmly to ensure putty covers all surface areas. If covering a large surface, you may work in small sections and in batches. To eliminate air bubbles in your mold, begin pressing in the lowest surface points working outward to high points.
- After only 6 minutes, Knead-A-Mold® cures to a soft flexible silicone rubber mold that can be used over and over again.
- Gently loosen and pull the mold from the object.
- Allow the mold to cure for at least 1 hour before using.
- If using your mold for food (candy, chocolate, marzipan, etc.), wash fully cured mold in the dishwasher or in warm soapy water to sterilize before molding.
- Make sure mold is completely dry before molding.
- Remember to reserve any food molds strictly for food — do not use the same molds for clay and other crafts and visa versa.
- Knead-a-Mold can be used with Brush-a-Mold — the two will bond to each other.
- Knead-a-Mold is thermal set silicone so cure time and pot life will be shorter in higher temperatures.
- For two part molds: once the first half of your mold is completely cured, you may create a “key system” to lock the second half of your mold by cutting a small trench with an exacto knife around the top surface of your mold.
- Measure equal amounts by volume of part A and part B into two separate clean plastic container.
- In a third clean plastic container, or on a clean glass or formica surface, combine part A to part B and mix until the color is uniform.
- Brush, spatula or trowel the mixture onto the surface of the object to be molded.
- Allow the mold to cure hour before using the mold or adding a mothermold like Swell Shell.
- Repeat the process with a second or third layer as desired. ¼” thick is recommended.
- Brush-a-Mold will bond with Knead a-Mold so the two can be used on making the same mold).
- Brush-a-Mold is a thermal set silicone so the cure time and pot life will be shorter in higher temperatures. If you wish to reduce cure time, simply use a hair dryer on the mold.
- To reinforce the walls of your Brush-a-Mold mold, you may embed strips of nylon panty hose by laying them on top of the first layer while still tacky and gel-like. Once the layer cures, the second layer of Brush-a-Mold can be spread onto the first and will bond together.
- simply mix 2/3 Petra-lite with 1 part water by weight. When thoroughly mixed and all dry material is completely wet, Petra-lite is now ready to press into any mold or sculpted over an armature, Styrofoam form, etc.
- While in its uncured state, you can embed objects in to Petra-lite or stamp patterns onto it.
- Allow Petra-lite to cure for 24-48 hours. Once fully cured, Petra-lite can be stained, painted, faux finished, sanded, or sealed.
Patina Stain Application Instructions:
- Clean metal with Metal Cleaner.
- Dilute the Patina Stain 1 to 1 with Xylene (Xylol).
- For the most even and clean distribution, apply the Patina Stain with an airbrush or other spray equipment.
- With a cloth, wipe the surface with thinner to leave the Patina Stain in the recessed areas. Alternatively, Black Wax may be used to darken the recessed areas.
Proper use, together with correct care and cleaning will ensure your brushes have a longer life. We hope the following tips will help.
Storage is important – always keep aired and whenever possible, in the upright position. Natural hair needs to breathe in order to prevent mold growth. Avoid window sills and radiators and keep your brushes out of direct sunlight.
Try to keep handles dry, to prevent them from loosening and cracking. When you dip the head into water, try to keep the water level below the crimping and only wet the ferrule.
Moulting or shedding hairs from a new brush is a normal process. Even though we ‘wet test’ here for you, there is no way we can perform the settling in period you will endure. Once the brush is broken in and following a few painting sessions the moulting will stop. Always thoroughly rinse a new brush before first use, to remove the Gum Arabic used to set the head.
Always clean a good quality brush thoroughly after each painting session. For fine hair, such as Kolinsky & Red Sable, rinse in cold water. Remove as much moisture as possible with kitchen roll and reshape before storing. For transporting to and from art class, I recommend a bamboo brush roll. This not only keeps brushes secure and prevents damage to brush heads, but also allows for air ventilation. Another special tip for longevity of brush heads is to recondition your sables as you would your own hair! Once a year, take ordinary hair conditioner and apply just one or two drops to the heads allowing to soak, then rinse well before storing again. This will greatly enhance the performance of the brush.
Expensive brushes, especially ones with a perfect sharp tapered point shouldn’t be used to mix the paints. Instead buy a less expensive alternative and save your points.
Oil and acrylic paint is less easy to remove from the belly of the brush head. When purchasing your particular brand of paint, ask the manufacturer which cleaner they recommend – there are some excellent cleansers out there! As an alternative, washing up liquid and cream cleanser (found in the bathroom) are good or a good quality hand degreasing agent – usually used by mechanics for washing their hands is excellent. To store good quality oil brushes, it is recommended you reshape and apply Linseed Oil or Pure Almond Oil etc, but you will need to cleanse before next use.
Always have a set of brushes for each medium you use. It is false economy to use the same brushes for all applications. ‘Crossing over’ from one medium to another can prove expensive and disastrous when contamination occurs.
Clear Guard is a crystal clear, durable, air drying lacquer that results in a hard, fast drying and tarnish resistant film. It has excellent adhesion to brass, bronze, copper, and other metals as well as patinas and rusted metal. Because of its unique chemistry, orange peel is virtually non-existent.
Clear Guard benefits
* Water white
* Mars resistant
* Air dry
* Excellent chemical resistance
* Perspiration resistant
* Ease of application
* Ready to use
* Excellent appearance
* Highly resistant to water and chemicals
* UV and weather resistant
Surface Preparation and Directions for Use
Surfaces to be coated must be sound, clean, dry and free from grease, oil and other contaminants. Use in a dust-free atmosphere, working in temperatures that are between 50°F and 80°F. Shake until ball inside can breaks loose and rattles. Then, hold the can at the top and swing bottom of can in a circle, making the ball travel around the bottom of the groove. Press spray button firmly, with the can six to eight inches from surface being coated. Move can with short dusting strokes, releasing the button at the end of each stroke. Apply several thin coats. Make sure the first layer of lacquer saturates the rust of patina. Allow one hour cure time between coats.
After completing each job
To prevent clogging, clear the valve by holding can upside down and spray only until clear gas comes out.
WARNING! FLAMMABLE – KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN. VAPOR HARMFUL – CAUSES EYE IRRITATION