preload

Townsend Atelier logo

How to

Welcome to our how-to section. Please click on a product name to display ‘How to’ information about it. (Clicking a second time clears that information.)

Be sure to visit our showcase for case studies of products and processes in use by our customers!

If you need more information about how to use any of our products, please contact us
1-423-266-2712 or info@townsendatelier.com

Knead-a-Mold®

Knead-a-Mold steps


  1. Simply measure equal parts by volume of part A (white putty) and part
    B (blue putty) into two separate equal sized balls.
  2. Knead part A and part B together with your hands until uniform in color
    (light blue). The heat from your hands will help activate the product. Once
    the color is uniform, you are ready to begin your mold.
  3. Press the kneaded mixture onto the surface of the object you wish to replicate.
    Press firmly to ensure putty covers all surface areas. If covering a large
    surface, you may work in small sections and in batches. To eliminate
    air bubbles in your mold, begin pressing in the lowest surface points working
    outward to high points.
  4. After only 6 minutes, Knead-A-Mold® cures to a soft flexible silicone
    rubber mold that can be used over and over again.
  5. Gently loosen and pull the mold from the object.
  6. Allow the mold to cure for at least 1 hour before using.

Knead-a-Mold has a pot life/gel time of 6 minutes and a cure time of 6 minutes
at ambient temperature (70-72 degrees F)
Tips:

  • If using your mold for food (candy, chocolate, marzipan, etc.), wash fully cured mold in the dishwasher or in warm soapy water to sterilize before molding.
  • Make sure mold is completely dry before molding.
  • Remember to reserve any food molds strictly for food — do not use the same molds for clay and other crafts and visa versa.
  • Knead-a-Mold can be used with Brush-a-Mold — the two will bond to each other.
  • Knead-a-Mold is thermal set silicone so cure time and pot life will be shorter in higher temperatures.
  • For two part molds: once the first half of your mold is completely cured, you may create a “key system” to lock the second half of your mold by cutting a small trench with an exacto knife around the top surface of your mold.

Before applying the second half of Knead-a-Mold, use a dry brush to dust
entire surface with baby powder—this will act as a release agent and
prevent the second half of your mold from sticking. Once baby powder
is applied, mix a second batch of Knead a mold and place on top of first mold.
Remove when fully cured.

If using your two part mold to pour, you may now cut (with an exacto
knife) a small hole or vent in which to pour resin, chocolate, etc.

Brush-a-Mold™

Brush-a-Mold steps


  1. Measure equal amounts by volume of part A and part B into two separate clean
    plastic container.
  2. In a third clean plastic container, or on a clean glass or formica surface,
    combine part A to part B and mix until the color is uniform.
  3. Brush, spatula or trowel the mixture onto the surface of the object to be
    molded.
  4. Allow the mold to cure hour before using the mold or adding a mothermold
    like Swell Shell.
  5. Repeat the process with a second or third layer as desired. ¼” thick is recommended.

Tips:

  • Brush-a-Mold will bond with Knead a-Mold so the two can be used on making the same mold).
  • Brush-a-Mold is a thermal set silicone so the cure time and pot life will be shorter in higher temperatures. If you wish to reduce cure time, simply use a hair dryer on the mold.
  • To reinforce the walls of your Brush-a-Mold mold, you may embed strips of nylon panty hose by laying them on top of the first layer while still tacky and gel-like. Once the layer cures, the second layer of Brush-a-Mold can be spread onto the first and will bond together.
Townsend Casting Resin™

Townsend casting resin steps


Townsend Casting Resin is a room temperature cured product (70-72 degrees F).

Townsend Casting resin is blended on a one-to-one ratio by volume to ensure ease of use. This
means you mix one cup of Side “A” to one cup of Side “B”. Blended
in a one-to-one ratio by volume, it requires no weighing to provide castings of superior
quality and high fidelity.

  • Townsend resins can be hand mixed. Simply dispense equal amounts of Side “A” and Side “B” into two separate empty, clean, plastic containers
  • Pour Sides “A” and “B” together into a third clean plastic container and mix together for 30 seconds. For small amounts you can use a dry wood or metal spatula. For larger amounts use a jiffy mixer in a small hand drill. When mixing avoid air bubbles!! Mix for 30 seconds and pour immediately into silicone rubber mold.
  • After pouring, do not disturb the resin after it starts to gel. De-mold time can be from 8 to 15 minutes depending on room temperature. It is important to use eye protection when mixing and pouring. Be sure ventilation is adequate to remove fumes from the casting area. After the part has been de-molded you may want to leave it overnight before continuing. The part can be used within one hour but the ultimate and complete cure occurs in 36 hours.

Tips:

  • Fillers such as metal powders, micas, pigments, non-water based dyes, marble dust (calcium carbonate), micro balloons, and solid glass spheres can be used. Addition of these fillers will modify the surface appearance and the density of the finished casting. The addition of the filler reduces the weight and cost of the system and doubles the volume. You may adjust the amount of filler to achieve different results in your castings or leave the filler out completely.
  • We suggest that you try a test casting in small quantities to familiarize yourself with gel times and other procedures. Note: The resin gel time and the de-mold time can be doubled if the resin temperature is lowered to about 40°F but must be stirred prior to using.
  • Urethane resins are very sensitive to moisture. Do not use any water-based dyes or pigments in the liquid resin. Water will cause resin to foam or result in uncured castings.
  • Our resins can be sanded, cut, drilled, or bonded. It can be stained or painted if the surface has been prepared by de-greasing or removing any remaining oil, grease, dirt or release agents. Wearing a dust mask is recommended.
  • Precautions should be taken to avoid contamination of Townsend Casting Resin. Do not open the containers other than to pour the resins into your mixing containers. Reseal the resin containers immediately after using. The opening and closing of the resin containers in areas of high humidity may contaminate the product.
  • If your molds require release agents, a release agent should be used that can be applied in a thin film so as to not destroy the integrity of the surface to be reproduced. Our casting resin will reproduce the finest details contained in the mold. If the release agent is applied in thick uneven layers with visible application lines or marks, they will be reproduced in the casting. We recommend that you test any release agent you select for compatibility with Townsend Casting Resins and its releasing ability with your molding material.
Townsend Pourable Mold™

This kit contains 57 cubic inches of mold making material

1. Prepare a container in which to pour your mold. You can use a tin can, plastic or cardboard milk container, bucket, or build a box out of wood, foam core, etc. Be sure that your container is watertight and that there are no cracks or seams for silicone material to leak out.

2. Place object to be molded in your watertight container. Adhere object to the bottom of the container to prevent it from floating to the surface when pouring mold material.

3. In a clean container, pour contents of Side A (clear catalyst/curing agent) and contents of Side B (white silicone base). Mix thoroughly with a wooden stir stick or similar disposable utensil for 3-5 minutes.

4. When thoroughly mixed, very slowly pour into your prepared container and over the object to be molded. A slow pour will allow silicone to reach all areas of your object and prevent air bubbles.

5. Allow to cure for at least 4-6 hours. (To ensure a fuller cure, allow to cure overnight.)

6. Once fully cured, demold your flexible silicone rubber mold. Mold may be cut if desired.

7. Your reusable mold is now ready for casting a wide variety of materials like Townsend Casting Resin, plaster, gypsum, wax, soap, concrete etc.

8. Clean up with isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol.

DIRECTIONS FOR SMALLER MOLDS

This kit contains 57 cubic inches of mold material. If you are making a smaller mold and do not need to use all of the contents of this kit to produce a single mold, follow mix ratio instructions below.

1. Follow steps 1 –2 in directions listed above.

2. In a clean container, add 2% of Side A (clear curing agent) by weight to 100% of Side B (white silicone base) by weight.

Example: 16 oz of Side B (white silicone base) : .32 oz of Side A (clear catalyst). This ratio will allow you approximately 50 minutes of work/pour time before the mixture cures.

3. Once you have measured your material, continue mixing and following steps 3-8 as listed in general directions above.

TO SPEED UP CURE TIME

By adding more catalyst (Side A) to the silicone base (Side B), the curing time can be accelerated. Changing these ratios will also shorten the amount of work/pour time you will have before the mixture begins to cure.

To de-mold in 2 hours:

Add 3% Side A (clear catalyst/curing agent) to Side B (white silicone base) by weight. This ratio will allow for 30 minutes of work/pour time before the mold begins to cure. Example: 16oz of Side B : .48oz Side A.

To de-mold in 1 ½ hours:

Add 4% Side A to Side B by weight. This ratio will allow for 15 minutes of work/pour time before the mixture will begin to cure.

Example: 16 oz of Side B: .64 oz of Side A.

Keep container closed when not in use.

Swell Shell™ brush-on

Swell Shell steps


Measure equal volume of side A and side B. Place into a clean, empty plastic container and mix with a spatula until liquids turn into a gel like paste similar to the consistency of cake icing. Apply by spreading onto fully cured silicone rubber mold and allow to cure for 24 hours. Pot life/gel time is 20 minutes. Cure time is 24 hrs.

Tips:

  • If working with a 2 part mold, allow the Swell Shell to fully cure on the first half of the mold. Then, apply our release agent to all of the areas you do not want the second half of the mold to bond to. Remember, swell shell is a wonderfully strong bonding agent! Once release is applied, you may begin applying Swell Shell on the second half of your mold. Allow to fully cure.
  • Swell Shell is very strong, but if creating a thin shell that you wish to reinforce, you may increase the strength of the shell by incorporating fiberglass cloth, burlap or other strand fibers by laying fibers onto the flexible mold and then adding a Swell Shell layer onto that surface.
  • Swell Shell can used to hand lay up a positive casting from a silicone rubber mold. No release agents necessary.
  • Swell shell is very, very strong and can be used as a bonding agent or as a glue.
  • Once cured, Swell Shell can be sanded, drilled, carved. Wearing a dust mask and safety goggles is recommended.
Petra-Lite™

Petralite steps


  1. simply mix 2/3 Petra-lite with 1 part water by weight. When thoroughly mixed and all dry material is completely wet, Petra-lite is now ready to press into any mold or sculpted over an armature, Styrofoam form, etc.
  2. While in its uncured state, you can embed objects in to Petra-lite or stamp patterns onto it.
  3. Allow Petra-lite to cure for 24-48 hours. Once fully cured, Petra-lite can be stained, painted, faux finished, sanded, or sealed.
Sculpt Nouveau Patinas

japanese brown

– Be sure to visit our gallery for examples of patinas and processes in use by our customers!

– Download a Patinas Overview

– Download detailed instructions on how to use patinas and other Sculpt Nouveau products.

– Download a flow chart mapping the patina and finishing process from start to finish.

Patina Stains

Patina Stain Application Instructions:

  1. Clean metal with Metal Cleaner.
  2. Dilute the Patina Stain 1 to 1 with Xylene (Xylol).
  3. For the most even and clean distribution, apply the Patina Stain with an airbrush or other spray equipment.
  4. With a cloth, wipe the surface with thinner to leave the Patina Stain in the recessed areas. Alternatively, Black Wax may be used to darken the recessed areas.
Solvent Dyes

– Be sure to visit our showcase for examples of solvent dyes in use by our customers!

– Download detailed instructions on how to use solvent dyes and other Sculpt Nouveau products.

– Download a flow chart mapping the patina and finishing process from start to finish.

Metal Coatings

– Be sure to visit our showcase for examples of metal coatings in use by our customers!

– Download detailed instructions on how to use metal coatings and other Sculpt Nouveau products.

– Download a flow chart mapping the patina and finishing process from start to finish.

Finishing Waxes

– Be sure to visit our showcase for examples of finishing waxes in use by our customers!

– Download detailed instructions on how to use finishing waxes and other Sculpt Nouveau products.

– Download a flow chart mapping the patina and finishing process from start to finish.

Bronze Powder

Bronze Powder steps

To incorporate into Townsend Casting Resin:

  1. Measure equal volume of A and B side of resin (see directions).
  2. In a third cup, measure out the same volume of bronze power.
  3. Pour ½ bronze powder into the A side cup and ½ into the B side cup.
  4. Mix each well, wetting out the bronze powder.
  5. Combine the A and the B into an empty, clean plastic container and mix thoroughly and continue following Casting Resin directions.

To dust on a mold:

  1. Sprinkle a small amount of the bronze powder into a fully cured silicone rubber mold and rotate to dust the entire surface (just like dusting a cake pan with flour).
  2. Pour mixed casting resin into the mold. The bronze powder will bond with the casting resin so that the outer surface of you mold will be bronze. Let cure. After de-molding, the surface can be polished (with 000 steel wool) and then patinaed with our Sculpt Nouveau patinas and finishes.
Permalac
Townsend Atelier Release Agent

Always use with adequate ventilation.

Hold canister about 8-12 inches away from surface to be covered and spray in all directions to completely cover mold. Dries and vaporizes immediately and will bond instantly.

Our unique polymer chemistry allows for vapor deposition chemical bonding of the release agent to the silicone molding. Each application of our Release Agent allows for 10-15 multiple castings before the need to reapply the agent again. This reduces the need for multiple molding of silicone tools for long casting runs and quick cycling runs.

The cast part surface finish remains exactly within your designed parameters – gloss surfaces remain glossy, matte surfaces remain matte-like and clear resins remain crystal clear without any hazing.

Contents under pressure. Do not puncture. Keep away from direct sunlight, radiators, stoves, hot water or other heat source. Store at room temperature. Exposure to temperatures above 120°F (50°C) may cause bursting. Never throw container into fire or incinerator. Keep out of reach of children. Do not spray toward face.

If swallowed: get immediate medical attention.

If inhaled: move to fresh air.

If on skin: wash with mild soap and water.

If in eyes: flush with liberal amounts of water.

Get medical attention if signs of illness and consult physician if irritation persists.

Molding and Casting Kit

Molding and Casting Kit

HOW TO USE YOUR KIT

Four simple steps!
Step 1: Make a mold
Step 2: Pour a casting
Step 3: Apply bronze coat
Step 4: Apply patina

Optional : apply a clear sealer especially if placing finished work outdoors

molding kit how-to steps

STEP ONE: MAKE YOUR MOLD

1. Knead-a-Mold comes in two containers—side A and side B. Simply pinch off equal parts by volume of part A (white putty) and part B (blue putty) into two separate equal sized balls.

2. Knead part A and part B together with your hands until uniform in color (light blue). The heat from your hands will help activate the product. Once the color is uniform, you are ready to begin your mold.

3. Press the kneaded mixture onto the surface of the object you wish to replicate. Press firmly to ensure putty covers all surface areas. If covering a large surface, you may work in small sections and in batches. To eliminate air bubbles in your mold, begin pressing in the lowest surface points working outward to high points. Be sure to build up an “edge” around your mold so that when you pour your liquid resin into it, it will not spill out. After you mold is cured, you can mix more knead a mold and add to it—it will knit to itself beautifully!

STEP TWO: MAKE CASTINGS IN YOUR MOLD USING TOWNSEND CASTING RESIN

1. Townsend Casting Resin is an easy to use urethane resin. Pour equal amounts of “Part A” and “Part B” into two separate empty, clean, plastic containers.

2. In a third clean plastic container, pour Part A and Part B and mix together thoroughly with a wooden craft stick, plastic spoon or disposable utensil.

3. When mixing avoid air bubbles. Mix for 30 seconds and pour immediately into silicone rubber mold.

4. After pouring, wait and do not disturb. In just a few moments, you will see the clear resin mixture cure to a solid bright white. Do not demold until resin is solid white and cool to the touch. De-mold time can be from 8 to 15 minutes depending on room temperature. Your resin mold can be used within one hour of demolding, but for best results it is recommended to allow to fully cure for 36 hours.

5. Once cured, resin is ready for Step 3— application of bronze metal coating— or any other post finishing technique you choose.

STEP THREE: APPLYING BRONZE METAL COATING

Metal Coating is ground up metal suspended in a non-toxic water-based acrylic binder. Applying the metal coating will create the effect of

real bronze. This technique is also called “coldcast bronze”.

1. Once your resin is cured, apply the first coat of the Metal Coating with a brush or sprayer. If brush marks are present, spray cool air over the surface to remove undesired brush marks. Allow first coat of metal coating to cure for 6 hours. This time may be rushed by heating with a heat gun or blow dryer.

2. Apply the second coat of Metal Coating. Allow to cure for 6 hours. IMPORTANT: If a patina is desired, spray onto the second

coat of Metal Coating while coating is still wet. See step 4 for more details.

3. The finish may be waxed or burnished with steel wool or fine scotch brite pad.

STEP FOUR: APPLYING PATINAS

The patinas will create beautiful coloration on your metal coating like the natural oxidation that occurs on real bronze over time. The Tiffany Green Patina will create a gorgeous rich green. The Darkening Patina will create a darkened bronze.

1. If a patina is desired, lightly spray on immediately after applying the second coat of Metal Coating while this Metal

Coating layer is still wet. The wet Metal Coating and the patina will create a reaction that will result in a beautiful change in surface color that occurs with real bronze.

2. Once the Patina is sprayed on, allow a generous amount of time for it to “bloom” (usually about 6 hours). You will see results of the patina immediately after applying, but for full effect, do not rush and let the patina develop slowly.

3. The finish may be waxed or burnished with steel wool or fine scotch brite pad.

TIPS

Patinas can be used alone or layered for variety of patinations and colorations. The Bronze Metal Coating and Patinas can also be applied to virtually any surface or material to create a bronze finish. Plaster, paper, glass, foam, wood, metal, clay, plastic, etc. The possibilities are endless!

Waxes and sealers can be applied over the Metal Coatings and Patinas.

Lightly burnishing the metal coated and patinaed surface with steel wool with highlight and adjust the patina.

To ensure that the Metal Coating adheres to a slick surface, you may sandblast or roughen surface with a scotch brite or other abrasive pad.

Metal Coatings are durable for outdoors.

Video demonstrations of metal coating and patina application can be viewed in our showcase

(Additional product tips can be found under the how-to area for each product, such as Knead-a-Mold)

Finishing Waxes

– Be sure to visit our showcase for examples of finishing waxes in use by our customers!

– Download detailed instructions on how to use finishing waxes and other Sculpt Nouveau products.

– Download a flow chart mapping the patina and finishing process from start to finish.

Rosemary Brushes

Rosemary Brushes

Proper use, together with correct care and cleaning will ensure your brushes have a longer life. We hope the following tips will help.

Storage is important – always keep aired and whenever possible, in the upright position. Natural hair needs to breathe in order to prevent mould growth. Avoid window sills and radiators and keep your brushes out of direct sunlight.

Try to keep handles dry, to prevent them from loosening and cracking. When you dip the head into water, try to keep the water level below the crimping and only wet the ferrule.

Moulting or shedding hairs from a new brush is a normal process. Even though we ‘wet test’ here for you, there is no way we can perform the settling in period you will endure. Once the brush is broken in and following a few painting sessions the moulting will stop. Always thoroughly rinse a new brush before first use, to remove the Gum Arabic used to set the head.

Always clean a good quality brush thoroughly after each painting session. For fine hair, such as Kolinsky & Red Sable, rinse in cold water. Remove as much moisture as possible with kitchen roll and reshape before storing. For transporting to and from art class, I recommend a bamboo brush roll. This not only keeps brushes secure and prevents damage to brush heads, but also allows for air ventilation. Another special tip for longevity of brush heads is to recondition your sables as you would your own hair! Once a year, take ordinary hair conditioner and apply just one or two drops to the heads allowing to soak, then rinse well before storing again. This will greatly enhance the performance of the brush.

Expensive brushes, especially ones with a perfect sharp tapered point shouldn’t be used to mix the paints. Instead buy a less expensive alternative and save your points.

Oil and acrylic paint is less easy to remove from the belly of the brush head. When purchasing your particular brand of paint, ask the manufacturer which cleaner they recommend – there are some excellent cleansers out there! As an alternative, washing up liquid and cream cleanser (found in the bathroom) are good or a good quality hand degreasing agent – usually used by mechanics for washing their hands is excellent. To store good quality oil brushes, it is recommended you reshape and apply Linseed Oil or Pure Almond Oil etc, but you will need to cleanse before next use.

Always have a set of brushes for each medium you use. It is false economy to use the same brushes for all applications. ‘Crossing over’ from one medium to another can prove expensive and disastrous when contamination occurs.

Good Luck!

Clear Guard Sealer

Clear Guard is a crystal clear, durable, air drying lacquer that results in a hard, fast drying and tarnish resistant film. It has excellent adhesion to brass, bronze, copper, and other metals as well as pateinas and rusted metal. Because of its unique chemistery, orange peel is virtually non-existent.

Clear Guard benefits

* Water white
* Mars resistant
* Air dry
* Excellent chemical resistance
* Perspiration resistant
* Ease of application
* Ready to use
* Excellent appearance
* Repairable
* Highly resistant to water and chemicals
* UV and weather resistant

Surface Preparation and Directions for Use

Surfaces to be coated must be sound, clean, dry and free from grease, oil and other contaminants. Use in a dust-free atmosphere, working in temperatures that are between 50°F and 80°F. Shake until ball inside can breaks loose and rattles. Then, hold the can at the top and swing bottom of can in a circle, making the ball travel around the bottom of the groove. Press spray button firmly, with the can six to eight inches from surface being coated. Move can with short dusting strokes, releasing the button at the end of each stroke. Apply several thin coats. Make sure the first layer of lacquer saturates the rust of patina. Allow one hour cure time between coats.

After completing each job

To prevent clogging, clear the valve by holding can upside down and spray only until clear gas comes out.

WARNING! FLAMMABLE – KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN. VAPOR HARMFUL – CAUSES EYE IRRITATION